Dancing in Buenos Aires

Haven’t written properly for days, I know. It has been pretty busy and we haven’t been in a great deal, other than to regroup, redress and possibly nap (an alien concept to me usually, but there’s something about this lifestyle that makes it necessary) and go to bed at 0430.

After the trip to La Catedral I reported, I danced at La Viruta in Armenia (also Rock and Roll, which I can take or leave). The class was very good there, though I left at 0030 and later discovered I’d missed the best of the tango. Apparently the show tango dancers from around town turn up to unwind with some social dancing after their performances. I’d like to see that.

The next day (as Lee had arrived), Zhenja (from New York: Lee and I met her in London in the Summer) took us to El Niño Bien on Humberto Primo in Monserrat. Beautiful environment and proper seated milonga. Good dances had by all. We also were introduced by Zhenja to her teacher, Alberto Catala who offered us reasonably priced private lessons in a studio he uses in Belgrano, subsequently inviting us to his regular table at Salon Canning. The price of the private lesson was more than justified by this kindness alone. I’ll talk more about the actual afternoon lesson at another point.

Canning was excellent – it lived up to the blogs I’d read – exclusive, challenging and very busy floor. Mondays are apparently quieter.

Now I’ve been to church and Lee has done a particularly challenging milonga class in Florida, we’ll probably go out for dinner now and then to Confiteria Ideal on Suipacha, which I expect to be quite like El Niño Bien, but with more tourists and less dressing up (apart from Lee who is looking pretty in pink).

Hasta luego!

The flat has just filled with people

I awoke at 0930 to the ringing of the doorbell. I opened the door and the caretaker, owner and a cleaner came in.

Forgot that I had accepted an extra clean in respect of the lack of gas.

Lee has now arrived! Says he is in need of beer and steak, so it’s off to El Desnivel in Defensa once he’s had a shower.

Two nights of dancing

I didn’t write about last night today. Since then I’ve been out again. Similar trip, two different dance venues.

Firstly, La Catedral, at Sarmiento 4006. I decided to take the Subte to get there (to arrive at 2200 for the class) but was thwarted in Argentine style: there was a fire(?!) on Linea B, so I got out at Carlos Pellegrini and had a think. I’m not aversed to playing with the buses a little, even in the evening, so I walked one block to Sarmiento and waited at the stop. A large, pale, friendly-looking chap in a suit and tie struck up some conversation with me. I could only engage in a limited way but he was amused when flashed my SUBE card at the bus driver and told him “Sarmiento 4000”. The friendly chap (Julio, for that was his name) told me in Spanish that this colectivo would go via Juan D Peron and that I could walk back to Sarmiento. He also warned me that what I was trying to do was quite dangerous. I’ve decided that it is mainly dangerous if you look naive, wander, talk loudly in English and carry a wallet, jewelery, smartphone or camera. I normally do none of those things. I also recommend growing a beard and cultivating a knowing scowl. I genuinely read that a woman was surprised her husband’s watch was stolen whilst they sat in Plaza San Martin, even though it was hidden by a “tennis bracelet”. I have looked that up, to find that it is a string of diamonds… ~sigh~

Although the colectivo was very crowded, Julio managed to indicate my stop. As he did so he gave me his card and said in English that I was to call him at any point if I needed help. I’ve since written to thank him. The world needs more people like that.

When I got of the bus, I started what became a 20-minute walk which should have been five. Having asked directions I strode of and ended up walking around five blocks in a rectangle or so. I finally found the club and was glad that I arrived when I did, because two Americans, Brent and Phil (I suppose she spells her name like that) from Wimbledon, London joined the quasi-queue behind me. They kindly paid my AR$40 for entry to the class and the milonga, which was laid out traditionally with tables three-deep around the floor.

The native Spanish speakers were hugely in the minority. As were the dancers – most people were tourists trying tango for the first time. I quite enjoyed the class, though it rocketed through about four weeks’ worth of material in an hour. The floor was also terrible. Wooden, but pockmarked, pitted and frankly dangerous. I happily assumed the role of taxi dancer, taking new followers out on the floor to walk out the basics. Eventailly, new people were asking me to dance with them and their friends. Dancing as much as I did from 2200 to 0300, it is becoming clear to me that some people “have it” and some people don’t. I danced four tandas with one German girl who had never danced anything in her life and she was unstoppable. I also took someone else out and the salida told me that there was no way tango was going to come naturally to her and sure enough her inertia tired us both out. It didn’t seem to matter if they’d danced anything else. I know from personal experience that salsa doesn’t help my tango at all (hips and arms everywhere), for example. Some of the Americans had danced some swing – maybe that’s good for coordination.

Anyway, the Quilmes flowed (from 970ml bottles, well under £4) the empanadas were edible. Everyone had fun, and almost everyone wanted to dance. I don’t think I was refused all night, but the cabeceo didn’t work anywhere. Towards the end we had some Chacareras and someone asked me to dance, but I struggled. No one minds too much with Chacarera. It has a certain phoniness about it anyway. I can’t help but feel it’s long-dead folk dance on life support, resurrected from time-to-time to allow men to show of their zapatos and amagues.

A very good night for my first milonga in Buenos Aires. I feel relieved – milestone achieved. The next club, La Viruta on Armenia deserves a post of it’s own.

Understanding Derivatives – A Perfect Metaphor

Thanks to Ian at Rotary for this.

This one came around about a year ago; but it is worth a repeat.  After reading this, you will understand how the bankers did what they did….

Ian. 

Gordon was the proprietor of a bar in Glasgow …..

He realizes that virtually all of his customers are unemployed alcoholics and, as such, can no longer afford to patronize his bar.

To solve this problem, he comes up with a new marketing plan that allows his customers to drink now, but pay later.

Gordon keeps track of the drinks consumed on a ledger (thereby granting the customers loans).

Word gets around about Gordon’s “drink now, pay later” marketing strategy and, as a result, increasing numbers of customers flood into his bar. Soon he has the largest sales volume for any bar in Glasgow …

By providing his customers freedom from immediate payment demands, Gordon gets no resistance when, at regular intervals, he substantially increases his prices for wine and beer, the most consumed beverages.

Consequently, Gordon’s gross sales volume increases massively.

A young and dynamic president at the local bank recognizes that these customer debts constitute valuable future assets and increases Gordon’s borrowing limit.

He sees no reason for any undue concern because he has the debts of the unemployed alcoholics as collateral!

At the bank’s corporate headquarters, expert traders figure a way to make huge commissions, and transform these customer loans into DRINKBONDS.

These “securities” then are bundled and traded on international securities markets.

Naive investors don’t really understand that the securities being sold to them as “AAA Secured Bonds” really are debts of unemployed alcoholics. Nevertheless, the bond prices continuously climb – and the securities soon become the hottest-selling items for some of the nation’s leading brokerage houses.

One day, even though the bond prices still are climbing, a risk manager at the original local bank decides that the time has come to demand payment on the debts incurred by the drinkers at Gordon’s bar. He so informs Gordon.

Gordon then demands payment from his alcoholic patrons. But, being unemployed alcoholics — they cannot pay back their drinking debts.

Since Gordon cannot fulfil his loan obligations he is forced into bankruptcy. The bar closes and Gordon’s 11 employees lose their jobs.

Overnight, DRINKBOND prices drop by 90%.

The collapsed bond asset value destroys the bank’s liquidity and prevents it from issuing new loans, thus freezing credit and economic activity in the community.

The suppliers of Gordon’s bar had granted him generous payment extensions and had invested their firms’ pension funds in the BOND securities.

They find they are now faced with having to write off his bad debt and with losing over 90% of the presumed value of the bonds.

His wine supplier also claims bankruptcy, closing the doors on a family business that had endured for three generations, his beer supplier is taken over by a competitor, who immediately closes the local plant and lays off 150 workers.

Fortunately though, the bank, the brokerage houses and their respective executives are saved and bailed out by a multibillion pound no-strings attached cash infusion from the government.

The funds required for this bailout are obtained by new taxes levied on employed, middle-class, non-drinkers who have never been in Gordon’s bar.

Now do you understand derivatives ???

Gracias por todos

Julio,

Muchos gracias por su ayuda en el colectivo última noche. Tuve una noche muy agradable bailando el tango.

Incluso regresó 0330 a San Telmo en un colectivo de Corrientes. Miro feroz y mantener la boca cerrada!

Gracias por la bienvenida a un turista como yo a su ciudad. Le deseo lo mejor en sus esfuerzos.

Saludos cordiales!
J.

(El turista con el SUBE)

Still no gas…

The saga continues. ByT are being very helpful. It isn’t their fault that the gas is not being supplied to the building, but if it really looks like we aren’t going to be able to cook for the trip, I will have to insist that we move or are at least heavily compensated. Apologies for my halting Spanish. My technique is as follows:

– think of the nearly simplest way of saying something in English.
– shove it in Google translate
– change the phrases that it returns for ones that I suspect may be more suitable. Use knowledge of other languages and select in preference words and phases you’ve heard elsewhere.
– change the English where the Spanish produced appears to be gibberish.
– paste into your e-mail and start on the next line.
– rinse and repeat.

It works for me…
J.

 

Like most e-mail threads, read from the bottom up:
———————-

 

Buenos días Ana,

 

Gracias por el mensaje. Agradezco la mañana servicio de limpieza que mi amigo está llegando desde Londres.

 

Todavía no hay gas. Puedo proponer una pequeña compensación de AR$60 cada día que no puedo cocinar? Ahora ha sido cuatro días. Mi amigo Lee quiere cocinar y las comidasen casa” son en parte de la diversión. Ahora comprendo de que el agua caliente siempre será variable.

 

Espero con interés reunirme con Andrea. Gracias por su ayuda en estos asuntos.
J.

 

On 23/11/11 10:56, Atención al cliente – ByT Argentina wrote:

Buenos días James,
Lamentamos profundamente que este tema se haya demorado.
Teníamos entendido que el mismo día de su ingreso , por la tarde. esto sería solucionado.
Como usted sabrá, todo depende de la companía de Gas que vuelva a habilitarlo.
El propietario no está en la ciudad hasta mañana pero está en comunicación constante con el señor Gonzalo, el portero del edificio, quien lo tiene al tanto de las novedades.
Por lo último que me informaron , el día de hoy por la tarde ya deberán tener gas en todo el edificio nuevamente.
El propietaro también se siente apenado con la situación y por supuesto, en principio, esperaremos que se reestablezca el servicio y no tendrá inconveniente en compensarlos de alguna manera por esto.
Además de esa compensación que le ofrecerá el propietario, él les ofrece un servicio de limpieza el día de mañana jueves.
El primer servicio corespondiente a la renta se realizará el día martes 29/11 a partir de las 9 hs.
La señora que realiza el servicio se llama Andrea y es de suma confianza del propietario. Si ustedes tienen planes, la señora Andrea podría realizar el servicio si ustedes no estuvieran. (igualmente el día de mañana como cortesía del propietario)
Aguardaré su repsuesta para gestionarlo.
James , estaré pendiente de su respuesta y de la habilitación del servicio de gas en el día de hoy.
Un saludo cordial,
Ana Garcia
Atención al cliente
—– Original Message —–
Sent: Tuesday, November 22, 2011 4:21 PM
Subject: Re: Chacabuco and Chile

 

Yo estaba equivocado. No hay agua caliente. Supongo que es una caldera de gas?
J.
On 22/11/11 16:10, James Valentine wrote:

Ana,

Todavía no hay gas. 🙁 Ayer le pregunté al encargado. Él dijo que hay un problema de suministro, y que sería reparada hoy. Ni siquiera puedo hacer el té no hay tampoco hervidor. Afortunadamente, el agua caliente ya está funcionando. La mañana de ayer ducha estaba fría.

 

Gastando mucho dinero en las comidas en los restaurantes tristemente con frecuencia por mi cuenta. Dpartamento no los aspectos buenas, aunque un poco oscuro.

 

Gracias por su atención.
J.

 

On 22/11/11 14:21, Atención al cliente – ByT Argentina wrote:

Dear James:
I am contacting you from ByT Argentina, Customer Service Area.
We do hope you are spending a nice time in Buenos Aires.
We want to extend our apologizes because at the momnet of the check in , there was no gas in the entire building due to a company cut.
The service was reconected the same day, wasn´t it ?
We would apreciatte if you can confirm us if everything is ok.
James, please don´t hesitate to contact us in case of any further assistance during your stay.
Kindest regards,
Ana Garcia
Atención al cliente
——————————-

Airport to Appartment

Hi Lee. You could take any remise from the airport. Should cost a bit less than $50 dollars US. Not a black and yellow cab – cheap but riskier. I used World Cars or something. Or slightly cheaper, a blue and white radio cab.

Just came out of La Catedral in Palermo, caught a bus and got of it for a 7 block walk home. Left the milonga at 0300, so half an hour is good going: took longer to get there. Slightly scary walk home, but I notice that nearly everyone is as scared as each other. Mutual respect? Got some good tangos in, but only with other tourists. Nearly solid dancing from the class at 2200 to 0300.

See you soon.

[Sent from my phone, probably on the hoof. Sorry if this message is terse.]

On Nov 22, 2011 9:44 PM, “Lee” <xxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

Hi James,

What was the best way you’d worked out to get to the appartment?

Regards

Lee